Thursday, January 15, 2009

люди как люди

its not worth it to write about my trip so far because i don't feel like it. so here is what i will write:

after finland i took a really rough ferry to tallinn. tallinn was beautiful and quite pleasant, they are doing pretty well for an ex-USSR country. I have always wanted to go there, and the Tallinn old town was gorgeous, especially with thick snow falling.

Riga was almost as pleasant as Tallinn but it seemed more like a real city, it is also the biggest city in the Baltic states, I think. There is a strange problem that I noticed: Latvians are very proud of their culture, being a small state threatened by surrounding countries throughout history (Poland, Sweden, Germany, Russia)

BUT 50% OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE CAPITAL ARE RUSSIANS

and they are definitely Russians. They speak Latvian, of course, but their mentality is still very Russian. And two days after I left, riots broke out in the capital because the economy was mostly based in stuff effected by "the Crisis."

But I have been in St. Petersburg for a few days and I really like it. Its like being in a Russian novel, and the weather was really awful, just like I expected!

But I mostly wanted to talk about Russians. About how they are really a downer and rude and not fun in public, inside of grocery stores, anywhere, really, at all.

but how one on one they are not bad at all. But they are still not like me, but that's okay, because if a country was full of people like me, it would be pleasant and boring, a little.

but here are some examples:
in riga the lady at the reception desk of the hotel seemed a little cold but then when i said i was from alaska she sat down and talked to me for about an hour about why the world financial crisis was caused by a global conspiracy, her daughter, the time she became a deputy almost by accident in the Soviet Union time and was embarassed, etc.

on the train from Riga i sat next to Stanislav, who seemed unimpressed by me, but still shared his chicken, beet salad, and cookies with me, and when I said I was full he said "ploxo kushayesh'," which translates to "you don't eat right". Then he got in an argument with the young woman sitting next to me about whether russia was in a bardak right now or if its doing well, seeing as how there are no tanks on the streets. then when we got off the train he gave me his number, just in case, even though i still think he was completely unimpressed by me.

Today I wanted to see Nikolayevski cathedral which is next to a little park. 70% of the church was covered with scaffolding so i sat down on a bench to find out where to go next. Then an old scrappy looking babushka came up to me and asked if I could help her. I expected her to say that somebody stole her purse or that times are tough, and I was prepared to give her about 20 rubles, but instead she asked me to open a beer.

This was sort of moral dilemma, because its sad to open a beer for an old lady, especially when its Baltika no. 9, which is extra strong. But I didn't really want to refuse, because she would get somebody to open it anyway. So I opened it for her and she sat down next to me and started talking. I gradually came to realize that she was insane. She said she worked in churches all her life and drank because her shoulder hurt. She said that the priest in the nearby cathedral was actually God himself, that he had a son but they don't talk anymore. She told me about the 3 monks named Isaac who gave their names to the Isaac cathedral that I was going to visit next.

She kept asking me if I understood, and when I said yes, she kept talking, or sometimes she said "you don't understand anything." I wrote down her address and I will try to send her a letter. She told me that she is afraid for me because all Russians are dangerous and that I have a very spiritual look about me, and when I tried to leave after about 15 minutes she said, "don't go, its nice with you."

But then she would get mad at me when I didn't understand her. She also told me a secret about my heritage that I can't tell anyone. I don't think she's right, but she got so mad when I told her that that I don't think I can reveal the secret, because I want to remain alive. I'm serious.

But I guess she wasn't a typical Russian, more like a crazy person.

Also right before I wrote this the old Russian jew who is living in the hostel as well asked me to rub cream on his back and then told me about world war II and his opinion on the Gaza conflict.

So people in Russia are really lyudi kak lyudi, you know?

No, I don't know, I don't really know anything about Russia. Or Russians.

5 comments:

rachael said...

oh my god david parker this is completely amazing. everything about it. i wish i wasn't so nervous when i traveled by myself. i mean, i never felt unsafe, but i also never ever talked to anyone in any of the countries because my mom raised me to be super aware of stranger danger.

Todd said...

david, i have weird encounters too. last week i was in basque country (with laura) and on one particular afternoon i was taking pictures of pro-palestinian posters and separatist posters when a man put his hand on my shoulder. first he offered to pose with the posters, as a real basque man. i declined, saying i had enough pictures, but really i didn't want to exploit him or to be asked for money in exchange for the picture. from there he launched into a very confusing rant about basque politics. i can't even summarize it well but the basic gist was that although his eight-year-old daughter is learning basque, he isn't himself political. he only wants to live and work. he kept saying that the spanish-basque tension was "an issue" to which i repeatedly nodded. at some point i discovered that he thought i must have ETA sympathies because he said, "you are waiting for something that will never come" (a basque state). when it was all over he insisted on kissing laura in the european way and of slapping me five (because i'm american). he wasn't malicious or anything, just drunk (i could smell it on his breath). uncomfortable.

Jim Parker said...

Hi David-

It sound like your experience working for the Public Guardian Office has come in handy in dealing with mentally ill Russians. But what did the old lady who needed help with opening her beer tell you? What was the secret of your heritage? If it was the fact that I am not really your father, well DUH. I mean I am 5'8" and you are like 6'6", so it should have been obvious. But don't worry, I have grown fond of you over the years and I think of you as almost a real son to me, like your half-brother Sam.
Also, I have negotiated with Middlebury for you to remain in Irkutsk for your senior year. I think it will help with your Russian, and you can take some Middlebury courses on line. They gave me a $500 tuition break. I know that is only about 1% of the cost, but you probably have not heard (since you are literally and not figuratively living in Siberia) that there is a global financial crisis going on and we all have to do our part.
See you in June, 2101! Love, (Faux)Dad

Sam K said...

dad's so mean.

Unknown said...

You have an interesting dad as Mia has an interesting mom. Hooray for all parents of these wacky kids!